2021 Palmer
France
Bordeaux
Red
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 19% Petit Verdot
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2030 - 2065
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2031 - 2061
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Thomas Duroux presented two stellar 2021s at Palmer. "The vines just did not want to stop growing. Luckily, the last 5-6 weeks of the growing season were dry and warm enough to ripen the crop," he told me. “Mildew impacted our yields in 2021 by about 20%, but the pressure was earlier in the year than in 2018. Having cover crops helped absorb some of the extra moisture.” One of the recent developments at Palmer is that the wines now spend their second year in oak aging in cask rather than standard barrique, which seems to give an added layer of understatement and nuance that is beguiling.
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2030 - 2065
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Thomas Duroux has overseen a transition of Palmer’s vineyards to biodynamic principles in recent years (I spent a morning inspecting their parcels for a future standalone piece on the estate.) I was interested to see how they coped with 2021 with the fraught but ultimately triumphant 2018 still fresh in their minds. “We lost 8.5 hectares to frost,” he told me, “mostly Merlot that goes into the Alter Ego. Then there was rain and big mildew pressure in late June and July when we lost 20% of the crop, but we managed it better than in 2018. July was rainy, and the vines did not stop growing, which was a concern. By mid-August I was pessimistic with respect to the size and quality of crop. Then it changed, and we had five weeks of dry weather which was a very good thing. We started picking on 24 September. The first vats of Merlot were pleasant, but the question was how the wine would be balanced in terms of tannin construction. We feared we would have a hole on the mid-palate. We took our time with the Cabernet Sauvignon. The key to the vintage was when we harvested an old Cabernet Sauvignon plot, which was the only plot with a high yield (45hL/ha). We saw the potential of juice (11% alcohol) and we presumed it was weak, when other plots with lower yield (27hL/ha) had better construction and stronger mid-palates. So, the five weeks of dry weather, plus the small yields due to mildew pressure are the two key elements of what is a qualitative vintage. In the end, the wines needed a little chaptalisation as there was a small risk of harshness in the tannin structure, just half a degree. The acidities are good, 3.71pH for Palmer, good IPT, a little higher than average and wines that are a modern version of wines of the last century. My feeling is that year after year, the vines are in better connection with their environment and this helps them adapt to the weather fluctuations.”
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