2005 Ornellaia

Tenuta dell'Ornella and sister winery Masseto show why they are among the world's top estates with the 2005s. Ornellaia often has an advantage in weaker vintages, as the winemaking team can work with the blend of varieties to partly compensate for the shortcomings of a vintage, something that is not possible with the 100% Merlot Masseto. And yet both 2005s here are terrific. The harvest started on September 30, a record that has been matched only by 2010 and 2014 in Ornellaia's history.

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is the brainchild of Lodovico Antinori, who founded this gorgeous, sprawling estate in Tuscany’s Maremma in 1981. Vines were planted in 1982 and the first vintages were overseen by the legendary oenologist and winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. Today Ornellaia is owned by the Frescobaldi family, but like all of the Frescobaldi properties, it is run independently. The estate produces a wide range of wines, from the entry-level Le Volte to the super-premium Merlot Masseto. To me, though, it is the Cabernet Sauvignon-based Ornellaia which truly captures the essence of these unique vineyards and microclimates. Early vintages of Ornellaia were predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, typically 75-80%, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc playing supporting roles. Beginning in 1996 the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon was reduced and Merlot took on a more prominent role, reaching the 30% or so that is customary today. In 2003 Petit Verdot was introduced as the fourth variety in the blend. Of course, the final blend each year is a result of vintage conditions. Other significant stylistic changes include increased selection in the vineyards and cellar with the introduction of a second wine, Le Serre Nuove, in 1997, which subsequently led to a more concentrated style in Ornellaia. Over the years the estate increased its use of new French oak barrels from roughly 40% in the first vintages to the 70% or so that is the norm these days. Fermentation and maceration times have also moved up from the 15-20 days that was typical early on to roughly 25-30 days that is common in recent vintages. Great attention is given to viticulture and winemaking. Each of the varieties and parcels is harvested, vinified and aged separately, a process that can include as many as 60 or so separate component wines. Fermentation takes place partly in wood and partly in steel, while the malolactic fermentation is finished in French oak barrels. The wines are aged separately for roughly twelve months. The final blend is assembled and the wines are racked back into oak for a further six months. Generally Ornellaia is neither fined nor filtered prior to being bottled, although in some vintages the estate performs a light fining.

It is impossible not to be impressed by the consistent results Ornellaia achieves year after year. This is a gorgeous set of wines from oenologist Axel Heinz and agronomist/General Manager Leonardo Raspini. In general, the estate's 2005s are smaller-scaled wines than is often the case, but they offer remarkable balance and plenty of style. As outstanding as the 2005s are, the 2006s are simply off the charts. They are thrilling wines that have tons of everything; fruit, acidity and structure to burn. Even though 2005 was a fresher vintage than 2006, Heinz reported that the 2006s have higher acidities that developed as a result of the unique qualities of the growing season.