2011 Riesling Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs

The Kastanienbusch is certainly the most esteemed site in the southern Pfalz, that part of the winegrowing region near the Alsatian border that is also known as the Palatinate. It is also, at an altitude of 320 meters, one of the highest. A southeast-facing amphitheater, woods at the crest of the hill protect it from westerly winds. Today a full 80 hectares of vineyards are officially allowed to use the name Kastanienbusch, but less than a quarter of those are truly Grosses Gewächs.

Although parts of the entire site have more chalk or colored sandstone, Hansjörg Rebholz’ family has owned a prime cut of about two hectares high up the slopes for over a hundred years. These were replanted in 1950 during the vineyard’s reconstruction. His parcel is composed of weathered slate of a reddish hue from iron deposits that run through it in veins. Wild herbs and bracing minerality are only two of the descriptors often used to describe these Rieslings, 6,000 to 9,000 bottles of which are produced in an average year. As he generally crushes quite late, Hansjörg Rebholz was faced with a rapid spread of botrytis during the 2013 harvest and thus made only a sumptuous Auslese (93) from that vintage, no Grosses Gewächs.

After a cool 2010 vintage, which only exacerbated the austere style that is the hallmark of this estate, the riper 2011 year played to all of Hansjorg Rebholz's strengths. Where many estates in the Pfalz produced wines that were a touch too rich, his lean-and-herbal approach was given just the flesh it needed for his wines to dance across the stage as prima ballerinas. Only Emrich-Schonleber on the Nahe can compete with the overall quality that was bottled here in 2011. This may not be a name readers in the United States know, but this vintage should have it in neon lights on Broadway. Also recommended: 2011 Muskateller Kabinett Trocken (88), 2011 Weisser Burgunder vom Muschelkalk (87), 2011 Weisser Burgunder Spatlese Trocken "S" (89), 2011 π-no Spatlese Trocken "R" (92), 2011 Chardonnay Spatlese Trocken "R" (93), 2011 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Trocken (88), 2011 Albersweiler Latt Gewurztraminer Spatlese (91), 2011 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2011 Riesling Trocken Buntsandstein (88), 2011 Riesling Trocken vom Rotliegenden "S" (88), 2011 Riesling Spatlese Trocken vom Muschelkalk (90), 2008 Riesling Sekt Brut (92). Other wines tasted: 2011 Silvaner.