2010 Riesling Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs

The Kastanienbusch is certainly the most esteemed site in the southern Pfalz, that part of the winegrowing region near the Alsatian border that is also known as the Palatinate. It is also, at an altitude of 320 meters, one of the highest. A southeast-facing amphitheater, woods at the crest of the hill protect it from westerly winds. Today a full 80 hectares of vineyards are officially allowed to use the name Kastanienbusch, but less than a quarter of those are truly Grosses Gewächs.

Although parts of the entire site have more chalk or colored sandstone, Hansjörg Rebholz’ family has owned a prime cut of about two hectares high up the slopes for over a hundred years. These were replanted in 1950 during the vineyard’s reconstruction. His parcel is composed of weathered slate of a reddish hue from iron deposits that run through it in veins. Wild herbs and bracing minerality are only two of the descriptors often used to describe these Rieslings, 6,000 to 9,000 bottles of which are produced in an average year. As he generally crushes quite late, Hansjörg Rebholz was faced with a rapid spread of botrytis during the 2013 harvest and thus made only a sumptuous Auslese (93) from that vintage, no Grosses Gewächs.

Even Hans-Jorg Rebholz, long one of my favorite producers in the Pfalz, struggled with the 2010 vintage. His style, which has always been a trifle austere, was exaggerated by the pungent acidity levels so typical of the year so that the wines for daily drinking remain a touch lean and herbal. However, at the high end his collection is more than merely impressive. Few other estates can match his dexterity with pinot blanc or chardonnay—and his dry rieslings, pinot noirs and sparkling wines are equally inimitable in style. Also recommended: 2010 Muskateller Kabinett Trocken (88), 2010 Grauer Burgunder Spatlese Trocken "S" (86), 2010 Weisser Burgunder Spatlese Trocken "S" (87), 2010 Chardonnay Spatlese Trocken "R" (90), 2010 Riesling Kabinett Trocken Buntsandstein"S" (85), 2010 Riesling Spatlese Trocken Buntsandstein "S" (87), 2010 Siebeldingen im Sonnenschein Ganz Horn Riesling Grosses Gewachs (90), 2010 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Trocken "S" (88), 2009 Spatburgunder Spatlese Trocken Tradition (87), 2006 Pi No Sekt Brut Gold "R" (92).Other wines tasted: 2010 Sauvignon Blanc.