2015 Ermitage Le Pavillon
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2025 - 2038
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The Chapoutier empire’s expansion continues apace and now, after three years of working in China, Michel Chapoutier’s daughter Mathilde has joined the company while at the same time launching her own line of wines, both estate and négociant, that are sourced from Provence and the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. Even as this sprawling company, which is now eight generations old, ventures farther afield from its hometown of Tain l’Hemitage (they recently added the venerable Beaujolais négociant Trénel to their holdings), their main focus remains on their northern Rhône wines. At the top of the line, Chapoutier’s wines have consistently been among the finest produced in the region and in recent years their entry- and mid-level wines have been steadily improving, even if they have a way to go to get close to the mind-boggling sélections parcellaires that have captured the attention of serious wine lovers and collectors. In a great year like 2015 those top bottlings, unsurprisingly, were among the standouts of the vintage but I suspect that a lot of patience will be required for them to show their best. The deeply concentrated yet elegant Ermitages, in particular, should turn out to be stupendous wines at the level of this producer’s amazing 2010s, perhaps even better.