1997 Ermitage Le Pavillon
France
Hermitage
Southern Rhône
Red
Syrah/Shiraz
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Michel Chapoutier continues to introduce stunning old-vines bottlings that relatively few wine lovers will get a chance to taste owing to their scarcity and breathtaking prices. But even the Chapoutier wines offered in large quantity are better than ever: thanks to the firm's new bottling line, completed for the '98s, large cuvees that once took a month to bottle can now be finished in a week, thereby minimizing bottle variation.
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The Chapoutiers were particularly successful in 1996, due in large part to late harvesting, and their best '97s are likewise among the stars of the vintage. Since 1995, and especially since 1996, these wines have shown a degree of elegance that was missing from the powerful, dense wines of the late '80s and early '90s. That the good news. The bad news for consumers is that Chapoutier's best fruit appears to be going increasingly into an expanding roster of luxury cuvees. The quality of these wines is consistently superb, but their very high prices and scarcity in the marketplace will prevent most wine lovers from experiencing this producer's finest efforts.