2006 Echézeaux Grand Cru

"I said from the beginning that the 2007 reds would be better than the whites," Jacques Lardiere reminded me as we began our marathon barrel tasting of the new vintage in Jadot's capacious dark cellar. "There's great minerality in the pinots, and it's rare to have minerality in wines that are supple and pleasant early on. The 2007 reds have soft, silky tannins but they also have power," he added. "The flavor really stays on the palate." At various times during our tasting, Lardiere described a number of 2007s as better than the 2005s and compared the 2007 vintage to his 1993s. The Jadot team did a particularly strong selection in its Cote de Beaune pinot parcels, eliminating up to 25% to 30% of the fruit. (Kobrand Inc., New York, NY) Also recommended: Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre (85-87).

Jacques Lardiere, who doesn't rush to judge each new vintage, seemed still to be pondering the quality of the 2006 reds in November, preferring instead simply to allow the wines to make themselves in Jadot's cold cellar. "There's a sharp quality to some of the Cote de Beaune wines," he told me, adding that the climate was more difficult in this area and that the wines were a bit awkward when they went into barrel. Still, the vintage has a good balance, he said, and there's a possibility that some 2006 cuvees, especially from the Cote de Nuits, might eventually be more successful than their counterparts from 2005, owing to the effects of some drought stress early in the '05 season. Incidentally, last fall Lardiere spoke of the importance of bottling 2005s with their energy intact, and it's exactly this quality that makes his top wines from this vintage among the stars of an outstanding year.