2022 Morgon Côte du Py

This was my first visit to Louis-Claude Devignes in Villié-Morgon. I met with Louis-Benoît and Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes, their father having ingeniously named his children after his appended given name, thereby avoiding any need to really change the label. More winemakers should do that! They represent the eighth generation to run the Domaine. “Our father was one of the first to put the lieu-dit on the label,” Benoît explained in their barrel cellar. “Louis-Claude was born in 1937 and retired in 2004. My father never needed herbicides. I work alongside my sister.” They now farm organically and undertake a semi-carbonic maceration.

I tasted their 2022s since they are already sold out of their 2021s. “We were lucky in 2022 as we had 120mm of rain in June. This saved this vintage. I think the wines have a better balance with lower acidity than the 2020s. They are raised entirely in concrete vats.” I found this sterling set of wines pure, tensile and structured. The lineup is crowned by a spellbinding 2022 Morgon Aux Pierres Javernières that ranks as one of the best I tasted during my time in the region. I was also afforded a chance to taste a mature vintage of their 2010 Morgon Les Impénitents Javernières, which I have set aside for a future Cellar Favorite. Look out for that.