2008 Chardonnay (Sonoma County)
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Kevin O'Connor and Matt Licklider opted not to bottle either a Klindt or a Cerise chardonnay from 2008 because, said O'Connor, "the vineyards were completely smoked out." He added that they were extremely sensitive to the smoke issue "because it was pretty clear that if you tried to get away with making something tainted it would be obvious to your customers, and risking your reputation is always a dumb move, so we had to take the hit." On top of that, "the yields from all the vineyards were ridiculously low; the only upside is that what fruit we kept was of excellent quality: really expressive, with good concentration. We're looking forward to moving on to 2009, needless to say." Once again I was struck by the clarity and intensity of these wines; the chardonnays are fermented with their native yeasts and see no oak whatsoever, while the red wines age in a maximum of 10% new oak.