2016 Sylvaner

Yann Beyer told me he thought the 2016 vintage was not a great one, and the estate declassified most of their top wines, such as the Riesling Comtes d’Eguisheim; others, like the Comtes Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, will be made in very small volumes only (roughly 1,000 liters). Beyer just didn’t feel the wines had enough texture and backbone to be sold under the namesake of their top wines. By contrast, he was especially happy with his 2015 Pinot Noir wines, which he believes are some of the best he has ever made. The estate is a good source of easy-to-drink, varietally accurate wines, but it’s the top three wines labeled “Comtes d’Eguisheim” that can be truly exceptional and that I think are often (unfairly) overlooked when Alsace’s best wines are discussed. Also, don’t miss Léon Beyer’s Sylvaner wine, a steal at the price. Readers should also keep in mind that the top wines and the late harvests from Léon Beyer all age extremely well (20 years or more is no stretch).