2016 Friulano

La Castellada was one of the properties that I was determined to visit while in Friuli because, for me, they represented a style and time period when the region was focused on creating “Super Whites”. The wines were of extremely high quality, but large-scaled and shamelessly flaunting their oak influence. On my recent trip, I was able to check in on a number of their wines, both current vintage, as well as mature, and both at restaurants and in the winery. The good news is that this artisan producer is about much more than the slick Chardonnay that left an imprint on me so many years ago. Today, It’s brothers Matteo and Stefano Bensa who are spearheading the winemaking and operations of La Castellada, overseeing 10 hectares of vines through organic practices. The style remains quite rich, sometimes almost hedonistic (such as the Chardonnay), yet I can’t argue with the balance found within the wines, especially from the single-vineyard, old-vine Bianco VRH. This richness is achieved through long macerations on the skins and maturing in both tonneaux and new barrique. Another highlight was the Rosso della Castellada, a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon that goes through extended refinement in barrel, with one year in new barriques followed by another three in large neutral oak barrels. This wine is packed full of regional character translated through Merlot and Cabernet. What’s more, after a taste of the 1993 Riserva, I felt assured that they can mature beautifully in the best vintages. In the end, I left this visit satisfied, and while I don’t believe that the Chardonnay is what the average wine lover is looking for these days, there are plenty of other enjoyable wines in the portfolio.