1998 Riesling Hochheimer Hölle Auslese
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In last year's report (Issue 82), I commented on Gunter Kunstler's "recent qualitative streak [that] few growers can equal." Nineteen ninety-eight, it must now be added, is the best vintage yet for this estate and resulted in one of the two or three most exciting collections of German wine I tasted all year. In virtually every style, Kunstler successfully bottled something truly memorable and delicious, as well as profoundly ageworthy. (Rudi Wiest)
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