1997 Riesling Hochheimer Hölle Auslese
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1997 was yet another highly successful year for Gunter Kunstler, adding to a qualitative streak few growers can rival. In fact, he seems to prefer '97 even to '96. Even the pinot here hung well into November (although its Auslese picking, according to my palate, purchased ripeness at the price of a worrisome tinge of rot). As so often in this vintage, water retention was critical, here favoring the wines from the Holle and Domdechaney vineyards. To avoid commercial confusion, properties acquired from Aschrott (see International Wine Cellar Issue #76) will now all be subsumed under the Kunstler label. (Rudi Wiest)
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