2014 VioRous

I walk into John Kongsgaard's barn-like winery on a late September afternoon just as the early dawn sets in over the hills of Atlas Peak. The first thing I see among the clutter of equipment is a photo of composer Gustav Mahler taped to one of the tanks. I ask Kongsgaard if he can put something on as I set up my computer and get settled in. His choice? The last movement of the 9th Symphony. Wow. Talk about going for it all. But that's exactly how Kongsgaard's wines are; bold, dramatic and full of ebbs and flows. The music goes off and the wines go on, and they are fabulous. In 2014, the wines are intensely mineral and savory. The 2013s are much more opulent. Both vintages look like they will be slow to mature. Other than that, it's still very much a down home affair here, with John Kongsgaard's wife Maggie, and son Alex both very much involved.