2018 Brunello di Montalcino

How does Alessandro Mori and the team at Il Marroneto do it? Vintage after vintage, this portfolio stands out for its depths of vividly pure fruit, energy, character, balance and the silkiest of tannins that make them both approachable in their youth and able to mature for decades. The 2018s are no different. Are these the greatest wines to ever be bottled by the estate? No. Will they mature at a snail's pace and make glorious old bones one day? Maybe only Madonna delle Grazie. Anyway, these 2018s will thrill Brunello tasters and lovers for many years to come. So what makes them different, besides Alessandro Mori seeming to impart his passionate personality into the wines? For one thing, it’s the terroir. The Madonna delle Grazie vineyard sits at 400 meters on the steep north hill of Montalcino, literally right below the castle town, facing north. Alessandro Mori explained that “We are standing on a beach”, meaning that when the region was encompassed by a large ancient sea that deposited clay and rocks found throughout most of the north, Madonna delle Grazie was the beach that stood above the water line, which imparted this location with sandier soils, laced with marine fossils and minerals. The vineyards that feed Mori’s estate Brunello are further down the hill, with different soils. That’s where the human aspect comes into play, as the separate lots resting in the Il Marroneto cellar are judged for their potential and individuality to one day be blended, declassified or even elevated to Riserva. As for 2018, when I asked about the challenges, Alessandro Mori’s first response was, “Who said it was challenging?” That’s when location comes into play; with ventilating winds from the north to offset the humidity, well-draining soils, and two weeks of perfect weather up to harvest, it’s easy to see why “challenging” isn’t the word he would use. However, these are the wines Il Marroneto made in 2018 – with about a 15% reduction in production, more finessed and delicate in style than usual – yet completely irresistible.