1998 Riesling
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The '98 and '97 vintages were both low in acid, admits Marc Hugel, but then that a sign of high maturity, of quality.Hugel prefers 1997 for tokay and gewürztraminer, but believes '98 is better for riesling.Rieslings from the later year have slightly crisper acids, combined with a more pronounced minerality, he says, and the yields were lower than those of '97.Both '97 and '98 produced small crops of thoroughly ripe pinot noir here (the Jubilee bottling is consistently one of the two or three standouts of the region); during the latter harvest, the pickers painstakingly eliminated about 10% rotten berries by harvesting on their knees, says Hugel.