2017 Riesling trocken

As mentioned in the introduction to this report, Helmut Dönnhoff testified to widely varying levels of frost damage, and largely saved the Brücke only by dint of burning candles in that vineyard. He is confident that the sense of density one perceives in so many 2017s is largely owing to the wines’ extremely high extract levels. And these he in turn credits not only to the reduced crop but also to a summer growing season that was relatively evenly balanced [ausgeglichen], with just enough precipitation in the nick of time (though that explanation doesn’t seem entirely satisfactory if applied to certain sectors in other German growing regions that escaped frost, experienced drought, yet also ended up with high-extract wines). “We had one of the earliest starts to harvest in our history in 2017,” relates Dönnhoff (though 2018 would set a new record), “but already in the third week of September, grapes were in the low 90s Oechsle and simply tasted ripe. Bear in mind that for our Grosses Gewächs we need absolutely healthy fruit – these are naked wines – and we were afraid lest 2017 might have turned into another 2006, when from one day to the next suddenly botrytis explodes.” Of course, as it turned out, the weather stabilized, but the Dönnhoffs saw no need to slow down, and their relatively small crop was picked in record time.

The trend continues at this address (as at so many others) toward lower residual sugar among the dry wines – in Helmut Dönnhoff’s words (also familiar from other growers) “the wines are becoming more ‘puristic’” – but he sought to reassure me, “don’t worry, we aren’t going to go heating up our cellar in order to get the wines down to two or three grams, it simply happened that way in 2017.” That having been said, Dönnhoff is entirely candid concerning his fascination with how-low-can-you-go Riesling. “Often when I go back and taste my dry wines from an earlier period,” he opines, “I find myself asking: ‘wouldn’t it also have worked if this wine had had a bit less residual sugar; in fact, might it not then have displayed clearer contours?’” He insists that electing to field a collection of what he, with obvious pride and glee, terms “naked” dry wines “involved a certain financial risk. But it turned out well and we were sold out more rapidly than ever before.” From my own experiences with his Riesling-loving countrymen, I would have predicted no less! This vintage introduces two new Grosse Gewächse as well featuring the return of a Brücke Grosses Gewächs, bringing the total number of legally trocken Riesling bottlings from 2017 to ten – an estate record.

Speaking of trends and proliferation, it’s worth recapping the steady expansion of this estate. Two pairs of major acquisitions – Norheimer Dellchen and Kirschheck in 1996; Kreuznacher Kahlenberg and Krötenpfuhl in 2006 – were driven by Helmut Dönnhoff’s dream of tending vineyards in each of the Middle Nahe locations that had made the reputations of this region’s once renowned noble mega-estates, notably those of von Plettenberg and the Anheusers. “It was a challenge,” he admits, “but also almost a cultural duty.” On the heels of a major 2009 swap with emerging Gut Hermannsberg (so that the two estates would not compete in either Kupfergrube or Hermannshöhle) Dönnhoffs acquired a prime share of Roxheimer Höllenpfad, a once-renowned site whose modern day eclipse had particularly bothered Helmut Dönnhoff because these prime vineyards remained after many generations in the hands of his sister’s in-laws. Most recently, the estate has expanded by acquiring a share of Niederhäuser Klamm that was being relinquished by von Racknitz. (For now, those vines are informing one of the generic Dönnhoff bottlings.) Total vine surface is now 69 acres. Unfortunately, even allowing for the fact that my annual tasting session with Dönnhoff is among the longest in duration of any that I undertake, we found ourselves compelled to omit the vintage 2017 wines from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. (For much more about this estate and its vineyards consult my previous reports, both for my extended introductory remarks and for descriptions of the estate’s vineyards sprinkled throughout my tasting notes.)

As mentioned in the introduction to this report, Helmut Dönnhoff testified to widely varying levels of frost damage, and largely saved the Brücke only by dint of burning candles in that vineyard. He is confident that the sense of density one perceives in so many 2017s is largely owing to the wines’ extremely high extract levels. And these he in turn credits not only to the reduced crop but also to a summer growing season that was relatively evenly balanced [ausgeglichen], with just enough precipitation in the nick of time (though that explanation doesn’t seem entirely satisfactory if applied to certain sectors in other German growing regions that escaped frost, experienced drought, yet also ended up with high-extract wines). “We had one of the earliest starts to harvest in our history in 2017,” relates Dönnhoff (though 2018 would set a new record), “but already in the third week of September, grapes were in the low 90s Oechsle and simply tasted ripe. Bear in mind that for our Grosses Gewächs we need absolutely healthy fruit – these are naked wines – and we were afraid lest 2017 might have turned into another 2006, when from one day to the next suddenly botrytis explodes.” Of course, as it turned out, the weather stabilized, but the Dönnhoffs saw no need to slow down, and their relatively small crop was picked in record time.

The trend continues at this address (as at so many others) toward lower residual sugar among the dry wines – in Helmut Dönnhoff’s words (also familiar from other growers) “the wines are becoming more ‘puristic’” – but he sought to reassure me, “don’t worry, we aren’t going to go heating up our cellar in order to get the wines down to two or three grams, it simply happened that way in 2017.” That having been said, Dönnhoff is entirely candid concerning his fascination with how-low-can-you-go Riesling. “Often when I go back and taste my dry wines from an earlier period,” he opines, “I find myself asking: ‘wouldn’t it also have worked if this wine had had a bit less residual sugar; in fact, might it not then have displayed clearer contours?’” He insists that electing to field a collection of what he, with obvious pride and glee, terms “naked” dry wines “involved a certain financial risk. But it turned out well and we were sold out more rapidly than ever before.” From my own experiences with his Riesling-loving countrymen, I would have predicted no less! This vintage introduces two new Grosse Gewächse as well featuring the return of a Brücke Grosses Gewächs, bringing the total number of legally trocken Riesling bottlings from 2017 to ten – an estate record.

Speaking of trends and proliferation, it’s worth recapping the steady expansion of this estate. Two pairs of major acquisitions – Norheimer Dellchen and Kirschheck in 1996; Kreuznacher Kahlenberg and Krötenpfuhl in 2006 – were driven by Helmut Dönnhoff’s dream of tending vineyards in each of the Middle Nahe locations that had made the reputations of this region’s once renowned noble mega-estates, notably those of von Plettenberg and the Anheusers. “It was a challenge,” he admits, “but also almost a cultural duty.” On the heels of a major 2009 swap with emerging Gut Hermannsberg (so that the two estates would not compete in either Kupfergrube or Hermannshöhle) Dönnhoffs acquired a prime share of Roxheimer Höllenpfad, a once-renowned site whose modern day eclipse had particularly bothered Helmut Dönnhoff because these prime vineyards remained after many generations in the hands of his sister’s in-laws. Most recently, the estate has expanded by acquiring a share of Niederhäuser Klamm that was being relinquished by von Racknitz. (For now, those vines are informing one of the generic Dönnhoff bottlings.) Total vine surface is now 69 acres. Unfortunately, even allowing for the fact that my annual tasting session with Dönnhoff is among the longest in duration of any that I undertake, we found ourselves compelled to omit the vintage 2017 wines from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. (For much more about this estate and its vineyards consult my previous reports, both for my extended introductory remarks and for descriptions of the estate’s vineyards sprinkled throughout my tasting notes.)