1997 Riesling trocken

Helmut Donnhoff, like Crusius, ended up with a third of a normal crop. "At the beginning of the summer, it looked as though it would be a lot worse than that," says Donnhoff. "In many sites, I thought there would be no wine. Surprisingly, nature repairs what can be repaired. By autumn, I was optimistic that I might have at least one fuder from each vineyard, a full set of wines, and in effect I succeeded in that." Succeeded as well, I hasten to add, in bottling several of the most vividly site-saturated, breathtakingly complex wines I have encountered at this address. (And long-time readers of this journal--or better yet, tasters of Donnhoff wines-will recognize what a startling claim that is.) Certainly the tiny yields played a significant role in this quality but, says Helmut, "you have to realize that with only 15 hectoliters per hectare it not as though you can achieve that much more than you can with 30 hectoliters. At 30 you can have great wine too, but at 15 you have only half as much! The critical thing for 1997 quality was wonderful weather throughout the harvest period. You could really play around a bit. Only you had to watch out that you didn't drop too much acidity, and after the first of November the jig was up as far as greatness was concerned." Many of the wines for which prices are not provided did not reach American shores and those that did are highly rationed, but I include some notes for perspective's sake. (Terry Theise)