2012 Riesling Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett

There are few estates in Germany that have the international recognition of Helmut Dönnhoff, who a colleague of mine has jokingly called the Dalai Lama of the Nahe. Indeed, few people are such an integral part of their region, embodying in a way its beauty, its charm and the story its soils have to tell. Never presumptuous, his rieslings are as serene, gentle and impeccably balanced as the man himself. While little has palpably changed since son Cornelius took responsibility for the cellar, leaving his father more time in the vineyards, the estate has substantially expanded its vineyard holdings. I remain an admirer of their style, but sometimes wonder if the wines have the same depth they once had or if the competition has merely grown more intense. (www.doenhoff.com) Also recommended: 2012 Weissburgunder (85), 2012 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer (85), 2012 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Trocken (86), 2012 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken (87), 2012 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (88), 2012 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett (86), 2012 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Turmchen Riesling Spatlese (89), 2012 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese Auction Wine (93), 2012 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein (93). Other wines tasted: 2012 Riesling Trocken.