2009 Riesling Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett
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How many of the greatest wineries in the world have no website and nonetheless sell all their wines on allocation? And how many of the greatest wines in the world are so serene? Helmut Donnhoff's rieslings seldom dance provocatively across your palate, but wait patiently for you to seek them out. Not surprisingly, in a vintage like 2009 his spatleses are-and I prefer the slightly drier style he is now sketching-again sublime, with each interpreting its site in its own way. I still prefer drinking his kabinetts in their youth, though, with the Leistenberg being my favorite this year. His dry rieslings have also become more approachable young, and the TBA is one of the best wines of the vintage in all of Germany. Also recommended: 2009 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer (88), 2009 Kreuznacher Kalenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2009 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2009 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (90), 2009 Riesling (85), 2009 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett (86), 2009 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett (89), 2009 Oberhasuer Brucke Riesling Sp a tlese (90), 2009 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (91).