1998 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese
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It was the end of October, says Helmut Donnhoff, before you could harvest anything decent this year. And had he wanted to jump the gun, the rain-swollen Nahe would have defied his attempts to bring grapes across! Here, too, riesling hung on through the rain, its best fruits not picked until mid-November, and revealing in the cellar and the bottle all of the glories for which these sites and Donnhoff's winemaking artistry are by now famous. (With heavy heart, I have omitted notes on all but the one most spectacular of Donnhoff's dry '98s, as none of them will be traveling to America.) (Terry Theise)