2003 Gracia
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Michel Gracia harvested on the late side in 2005, finishing on October 7. Still, he told me, he has been picking with less surmaturite since 2001. "Two thousand five was an easy harvest, with no rot," he said, adding that the crop level was just 32 hectoliters per hectare. Still, Gracia carried out his normal 20% saignee to further concentrate the must. He did "more maceration than extraction" in 2005, including an extended pre-fermentation cold soak. Gracia noted that the cold soak of the merlot grapes actually lasted up to ten days because he prefers to vinify the merlot with the later-harvested cabernet, as he believes that the "molecules knit better this way."
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Michel Gracia harvested between October 4 and 18, using his sorting table to eliminate grapes that were still pink or had withered skins. He told me he began with 36 hectoliters per hectare but after bleeding off 30% of the juice actually produced just 26. Nowadays, Gracia works quite reductively. As recently as 2001, he racked his wine six times, but the 2003 has only been racked three times, and the general rule now is two rackings in the first year and one in the second.
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Michel Gracia told me he harvested all his vines in October, finishing on the 15th of the month, which would make him one of the last property owners to be in the vines in 2003. He carried out a 12-day pre-fermentation cold soak, then fermented at cooler temperatures than usual. There will be just ten barrels of wine this year, from a yield of just 13.5 hectoliters per hectare, according to Gracia, compared to 17 in 2002 and 19 in 2001. This wine has grown progressively fresher since the 2001 vintage, and the 2003, with a rather high 13.7% alcohol, boasts a healthy pH of 3.7 along with 3.4 grams per liter of acidity.
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