2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2020 Brunello from the Fuligni estate is an elegant and rich effort that’s quite seductive, with an attractive whiplash of acidity that maintains fantastic energy. The 2020 possesses a balance of fruit, acid and structure atypical of the vintage. Oenologist Jacopo Vagaggini explains that yields were reduced by 10% because of the warm and dry conditions, which led to small berries and thick skins. Harvest began on September 15, which is early by their standards. With that said, they were happy enough with the results to decide to make a Riserva. Honestly, I’m not surprised—the Brunello is one of the most harmonious wines of 2020. As for the 2019 Riserva. It’s classic to the core and destined for a long and glorious evolution in bottle. For fans of Brunello who haven’t begun stockpiling Fuligni: what are you waiting for?

It's always a pleasure to stop by Fuligni and taste with proprietor Roberto Guerrini. There are a number of promising wines in the cellar, starting with the 2012 and 2013 Brunellos. In 2014, yields are down 50% across the board, but Guerrini plans to bottle a small amount of Brunello. As always, the Fuligni Brunellos sit comfortably between classic and more modern styles, which, among other things, means the wines tend to drink well with minimal cellaring. Guerrini ages his Brunellos in a combination of 500-liter barrels and larger casks. Tasting the wines from oak, it is clear as night and day that the wines from cask are much more delineated and energetic than the wines from smaller French oak barrels. Fuligni insists that French oak helps to set color, but all it takes is one look at the wines to see that color intensity and pigmentation are not issues here at all. Turning to the wines in bottle, both the 2011 Brunello and 2010 Riserva are strong.

According to proprietor Roberto Guerrini the 2010 growing season was characterized by late bud break that led to late harvest but the key to the year was three well-timed rains in late August and early September that set the vines up perfectly for the last 4-5 weeks of ripening. The Fuligni 2010s are gorgeous wines very much in the classic house style that melds Sangiovese typicity with generous, ample texture. The Brunellos are aged almost exclusively in cask these days, with little oak influence.