2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2020 Brunello from the Fuligni estate is an elegant and rich effort that’s quite seductive, with an attractive whiplash of acidity that maintains fantastic energy. The 2020 possesses a balance of fruit, acid and structure atypical of the vintage. Oenologist Jacopo Vagaggini explains that yields were reduced by 10% because of the warm and dry conditions, which led to small berries and thick skins. Harvest began on September 15, which is early by their standards. With that said, they were happy enough with the results to decide to make a Riserva. Honestly, I’m not surprised—the Brunello is one of the most harmonious wines of 2020. As for the 2019 Riserva. It’s classic to the core and destined for a long and glorious evolution in bottle. For fans of Brunello who haven’t begun stockpiling Fuligni: what are you waiting for?

While unable to meet with the renowned Maria Flora Fuligni on my recent visit to the estate, her nephew, Roberto Guerrini Fuligni, and oenologist, Jacopo Vagaggini (who has been slowly taking over responsibilities from his father, Paolo), were there to tour and taste with. The historic Fuligni estate covers over one hundred hectares of wheat, olive groves and forest, with only twelve hectares that are planted to vines. The winery is located just two miles east and north of Montalcino. Elevations range from 350 to 450 meters. The oldest parcels, with vines thirty years and older, are at the highest elevations and planted in a mix of stone, clay and galestro marl. These are the vines that feed the Riserva of the estate, where the combination of poor soils and vine age helps to naturally reduce yields. The winemaking here is traditional, yet progressive and open-minded, especially of late, with indigenous yeast fermentations and long-ish macerations. While the Brunello begins its refinement in Tonneaux, they are shortly moved to large botti of 35-40-hectoliter Slavonian oak to complete the barrel aging process, which can last from two to two-and-a-half years, depending on the vintage. The Riserva matures for an average of three years, completely in large botti. In my opinion, the Brunello produced at this address are some of the classiest, most refined and long-aging wines being made in Montalcino today. They are extremely difficult to read in their youth, with a depth of fruit and minerality that is tightly clenched by a wall of tannin. In fact, it isn’t rare that I’ll check in on a bottle over the course of a few days to get a good read on it. However, as they mature and mellow, they transform into models of elegance and almost-sensual appeal. While at the winery, I was able to check in on the 2006, 2007 and 2016 Riservas; each one was simply stunning, with the 2016 in the running for wine of the vintage.