2003 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain
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Hirtzberger did what he could to extend the ripening season this year. That included less aggressive green harvesting than usual. In the end, picking was scarcely later than in a normal year, and that, Hirtzberger believes, was critical to the excellent quality he achieved at all levels of ripeness. At the Smaragd level, not only did all of the wines hang through the frost, but many of them were tinged with botrytis, as is so often the case at this address. This did not inhibit fermentation, says Hirtzberger, as had sometimes been the case here in 1999 and 2000, and all of the 2003s had been bottled by the end of April. (Vin Divino, Chicago, IL) Also recommended: 2003 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten, 2003 Weissburgunder Smaragd Steinporz, 2003 Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen.
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