1999 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain

Hirtzberger '99 collection is magnificent, and notable for his having scored such successes at varying levels of ripeness. Picking was late: even some of the grapes for Steinfeder were gathered early in November and more than 15 of the estate's 24 acres were still unharvested in the middle of that month. Long fermentations, some into February, meant sleepless nights, but also well‑buffered and integrated wines, says Hirtzberger. He is keen to let his young wines breathe and, as he puts it, "not to become really reductive until after the fermentation. I'm no fan of whole-cluster pressing. On the contrary," Hirtzberger adds, "for our minerally soils, oxygen and skin contact are important to ensure full aromatics and to make sure the wine doesn't become too thin. All year you work hard in the vineyard to build aromas in the grape, and those are trapped in the skins, not in the juice. I'm not bothered even if the must turns a little brown." At the other end of the wine's life, Hirtzberger recommends decanting Smaragd wines and (with Knoll) has commissioned from Riedel Crystal a limited-edition update of an old-style decanter designed for white wine.