2013 Lemberger

In some ways, Fox Run typifies the contemporary Finger Lakes winery. Of decent size (between 15,000 and 20,000 cases of wine, annually), they produce a wide range of wines and styles, the majority of which they sell through their very popular tasting room. What sets them apart and makes them important, however, is the influence of their winemaker. Peter Bell is a straight-shooting guy who promotes science and facts over trends and philosophy. He has personally trained or indirectly inspired many of the Finger Lakes most important winemakers. He is also extremely pragmatic, and irrepressibly wry. "I'm an interventionist winemaker. We all are, otherwise the grapes would just sit on the vine." Bell produces a slew of wines, all of which are technically sound, but his Rieslings are his finest work. A typical Fox Run Riesling is a nervy, energetic wine that lights the palate up like fireworks. A casual taste of a few bottles with age indicate that these are Rieslings for the long haul.