2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken

Although Matthias Muller now gives him a run for his money, Florian Weingart is clearly the leading producer from the Mittelrhein at present. And he does everything well, from dry riesling through feinherb styles to mouthwatering kabinetts and spatleses. He says that his German clients "find the drier rieslings more drinkable, but the kabinett should play well in the States, especially this year." The 2008s here are much purer in style than they had been in the past, when high must weights, spontaneous fermentations and partial malolactic conversions made some of the wines appear overblown. Given the small quantities produced, and the fact that the 2007 stopped fermenting with only 5.5% alcohol (not enough to be labeled as a wine), Weingart blended his 2007 and 2008 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95) into a wine he named "7 & 8." An unusual practice, yes, but an excellent wine. Also recommended: 2008 Bopparder Hamm Ohligberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese Trocken (89), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese Trocken * (90), 2008 Riesling Halbtrocken (85), 2008 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett (88). Other wines tasted: Also tasted: 2008 Riesling Trocken. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset New York