2006 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese

Two thousand six was the fastest vintage Florian Weingart has ever harvested: he began in late September and finished in just 17 days. He moved as quickly as possible to stay one step ahead of the advancing rot, but nonetheless had to handle almost every bunch berry by berry. "It was a lot more work than we have ever had before, but at least we had fewer problems than some." One problem that he was not able to avoid was high alcohol from the extremely ripe grapes (one of the off-dry wines pegged in at 14%, which is awkwardly high for a wine with significant residual sugar). While he is returning little by little to many of the practices his father had already implemented ten years before, Weingart's spontaneous fermentations provide his wines with a character that few others besides those of Matthias Muller have. Certainly no one on the Mittelrhein was more consistent this year, but 2007 should be even better. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2006 Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken (85), 2006 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2006 Riesling Halbtrocken (85), 2006 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (87). Other wines tasted: 2006 Riesling Trocken, 2006 Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2006 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese Trocken *