2004 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese

Florian Weingart, the rising star on the Mittelrhein, crushed his 2004s with the highest average must weight in the history of the winery, higher even than the extremely ripe 2003s.Nothing was harvested below 90o Oechsle, but all the lots have a vibrant acidity that the 2003s lacked."It was my spatlese vintage," said Weingart, who showed me 18 rieslings, 12 of which were spatleses-four each in dry, off-dry and classical style.Actually, even the luscious kabinett is a spatlese.Of particular interest for wine lovers is the off-dry spatlese that he named "Anarchie" because it stopped fermenting with an awkward 35 grams of residual sugar.This is a style of wine that is, unfortunately, not made much anymore.I give it what the French call a "coup de coeur."Despite his growing fame, the exceptionally thoughtful Weingart has not lost his head and still delivers a wide range of excellent rieslings at very consumer-friendly prices.(Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New York) Also recommended: 2004 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2004 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2004 Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (87), 2004 Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese (88), 2004 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spatlese (89)