2004 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg
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As I retasted the entire line-up of wines again in September, it once again was clear to me why Knoll does not release his Smaragd wines until autumn. These wines are often extremely closed and even indifferent when tasted from the barrel the spring after the harvest. Their true character surfaces only with time in the bottle, and in this vintage they are already evolving beautifully. The longevity of the Knoll wines is a function of several factors, including hang time and physiological ripeness of the fruit and hand selection, but in the case of this winery it is also a question of the way Knoll treats his musts and wines.Knoll practices little clarification of the must at bottling, and minimal filtration, and as a result his wines contain higher tannin levels and require longer time to evolve than more polished wines from other Wachau vintners. But one can be confident that patience will be rewarded generously.