2002 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg

The challenges at harvest this year (the picking went on over a nearly two-month period ending November 29) were occasionally downright depressing, admits Emmerich Knoll, Jr.Still, he considers his 2002 crop of largely late-harvested and stringently selected gruner veltliners, despite their low measurable acidity, to have an edge in sleekness, dynamism and flavor interest over those of vintage 2000.One thing is certain here this year:riesling, whose skins were more sensitive to encroaching botrytis and which was therefore as a rule picked sooner, far outperformed gruner veltliner.And Pfaffenberg virtually stole the riesling show.In the last several years, after acquiring a spectacularly situated additional parcel in this Krems-Stein site, the Knolls have become ever more sophisticated in their segregation and handling of the fruit and serious about showcasing Pfaffenberg's great potential.While there was more botrytis to go around this year than was wanted, with the notable exception of one gruner veltliner Auslese it did not team up with a sufficiently extended dry period or with warm breezes to permit nobly sweet cuvees (Vin Divino, Chicago, IL) Also recommended: 2002 Gelber Muskateller Federspiel, 2002 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles, 2002 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kreutles (from cask), 2002 Gelber Traminer Smaragd, 2002 Riesling Smaragd Schutt, 2002 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg.