2009 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru

This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their élevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no bâtonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate's 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate's 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity.

According to Didier Seguier, the extended flowering in 2010 featured a lot of coulure and millerandage, setting the stage for a loss of up to 40% of the crop (premier cru yields rarely exceeded 40 to 45 hectoliters per hectare, which Seguier described as very low for Chablis). During a hot July, there was little problem with vine disease, but rains at the end of August and in early September brought botrytis pressure. The estate picked during the last ten days of September, bringing in some of its best vineyards before rain began falling on the 24th. Potential alcohol levels ranged from 11% to 12.5% and some chaptalization was done. Seguier describes the wines as "classic, rich and aromatic, with good acid/mineral structure, but not austere." The post-malo wines have acidity in the 4.3 to 4.5 grams-per-liter range, almost as much as in 2008 and 2007. But one does not feel the acidity as much as in those earlier vintages, Seguier noted, because the material was richer in 2010. All the wines were in cuve on their fine lees since late March. Incidentally, William Fevre will use DIAM corks for all of its wines, including grand crus, in 2010.

As in so many vintages here, Fevre harvested early in 2009, beginning on September 14, to preserve freshness and acidity, as well as to avoid aromas of surmaturite. In fact, winemaker Didier Seguier noted, the acid levels in the wines are now in the 3.8 to 4.2 grams-per-liter range, very similar to those of 2002 and 2000, and pHs ranged from 3.15 to 3.3. (In comparison, the 2008s carry pHs in the 3.1 to 3.2 range, with acidity levels in the neighborhood of 4.5 grams.) The 2009 growing season began with an irregular flowering and an attack of caterpillars, which cut yields in many areas, particularly on the right bank of the Serein. Many of Fevre's parcels produced between 30 and 45 hectoliters per hectare, which is a moderate yield considering that so many producers declared the maximum rendements of 54 for grand crus, 58 for premier crus and 60 for village wines. (Henriot, Inc., New York, NY) Also recommended: 2009 Chablis Champs Royaux (85).