2009 Beaune Les Greves

Morey started harvesting chardonnay in 2009 on September 10, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol between 12.8% and 13.6% (most cuvees were not chaptalized), and with what he described as lowish acidity. "The wines are round and stuffed on entry, but they don't lack acidity on the end of the mouth," he told me. "But I feel the minerality more in the aromas of the wines than in their texture." Morey noted that his 2008s have more surmaturite ("some cuvees are very ripe") and that 2009 has "a cleaner balance" that will probably allow them to age a bit longer than the 2008s. He believes they will be at their best in about five years. When I asked Thomas if he's working differently than his father Bernard, he told me he's now doing more debourbage. But while he's now starting with finer lees, he is subsequently stirring the lees less frequently-every two weeks during the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations. As usual, the malos finished early here (by January of this year) and the wines had been blended. Morey always bottles before the next harvest. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY) Also recommended: 2008 Saint-Aubin Le Puits (86).