2008 Beaune Les Greves

These wines had been racked three days before my visit and thus were hard to taste. Thomas Morey, who now shares the vineyard holdings of father Bernard with his brother Vincent, described the malolactic fermentations as "capricious": on average, they finished in late March. He told me he does the same vinification as his brother but finds his wines to be more taut; he also noted that he does less lees stirring than his brother but attributes the difference to the environment of his cave. He told me that he'd like to try a longer elevage-if only he had the space in his cellar to do this. Thomas noted that he started harvesting two days later than his brother in 2008 but that they both picked quickly. "The fruit stayed high in acidity while gaining in ripeness in the final days," he said. Still, Morey expects to drink his '08s before his '07s.