2009 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

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As he did in 2006 and 2008, Thierry Matrot picked later than most of his neighbors did in 2010. The crop level was down considerably owing to the hard winter frost in December of 2009 (Matrot had to replant 4,600 vines) and bad weather during the flowering. Acid levels are sound (typically between 4.2 and 4.4 grams per liter) in the post-malo wines but Matrot considers his 2010s to be riper than his 2008s (he feels that hail stress give a slight vegetal aspect to the acidity in '08). There was also a higher skin-to-juice ratio to the grapes in 2010, and the wines finished drier than the 2008s. Matrot believes that the 2010s will turn out to be enveloping, fleshy wines, rounder and more sensual than the '08s.

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I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren't markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing.

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Thierry Matrot differentiated between the 2009 growing season and the two previous years. "The 2009s are round, generous wines with enveloping aromas-very flattering wines with just enough acidity to keep them fresh," he said. "For me, 2008 is very ripe, almost surmuri, a vintage for Monsieur Tout Le Monde. But 2007 has higher tartaric acidity; it's a more limey style with a cold maturity." It was a challenge to get the 2008s through their malos, and in the end Matrot bottled six wines in November of 2009-the first time he had bottled chardonnay after the following harvest. He noted that the 2008 Meursault Les Chevalieres actually finished its malo after the 2009 did. I found some of these 2008s downright idiosyncratic, but that doesn't mean I didn't like them. The '09s finished their secondary fermentations between November and January.

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