2008 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

Thierry Matrot differentiated between the 2009 growing season and the two previous years. "The 2009s are round, generous wines with enveloping aromas-very flattering wines with just enough acidity to keep them fresh," he said. "For me, 2008 is very ripe, almost surmuri, a vintage for Monsieur Tout Le Monde. But 2007 has higher tartaric acidity; it's a more limey style with a cold maturity." It was a challenge to get the 2008s through their malos, and in the end Matrot bottled six wines in November of 2009-the first time he had bottled chardonnay after the following harvest. He noted that the 2008 Meursault Les Chevalieres actually finished its malo after the 2009 did. I found some of these 2008s downright idiosyncratic, but that doesn't mean I didn't like them. The '09s finished their secondary fermentations between November and January.