2021 Chablis Les Pargues

Australian-born winemaker Marc Cameron showed me through Servin’s 2021s at the winery. “It was the most difficult and complex vintage for a long time,” he tells me in typically candid fashion. “We lost 100% of Petit Chablis and we wouldn’t have even made a barrel. Generally volumes are down 70%, though the Grand Crus were less affected. Because there were fewer grapes the ripening was quicker and this created more variations between the cuvées. We started the harvest on 17 September as we were a bit scared of what was going to happen. You could obtain exotic fruits but there is plenty of acidity on the back end. Ten pickers went in for two hours and then we stopped. In my opinion the wines will need to be bottled later.”