2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
France
Batard Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Veteran Jean-Claude Ramonet makes no claims for greatness for either the 2016 or 2017 white Burgundies, so I feel a bit out on a limb by rating his wines higher than he apparently does. Ramonet considers 2016 to be a fragile vintage, "especially for the frosted vineyards," and will bottle his wines with a full 35 parts per million of sulfur. Perhaps more important, he feels that the frosted 2016s "lack something." I enjoyed the '16s for their energy but I do wonder if some of them will expand and gain in pliancy and complexity in bottle like the best vintages at this address. And, as in some other cellars, especially in Chassagne-Montrachet, a few of these wines finish with a faint bitterness that may reflect the influence of some less-ripe second-generation grapes. But the best '16s here are standouts, and they appear destined for a slow and positive evolution in the cellar.