2019 Monthélie Rouge

Anne Morey has been producing a raft of excellent, very “soulful” wines from her 11 hectares of vineyard in recent years, both under her Domaine (Pierre Morey) and négociant (Morey Blanc). “It was important to be vigilant in the vineyard,” she told me. “There was no disease pressure. The flowering passed well for whites and reds, very rapid and regular and finished at the same time. There was just a short cold period that affected the Chardonnay a little. We started harvesting on 12 September with the Chardonnay, then the Pinot Noir and then finished with the Aligoté. The vinification for the reds was smooth, though I found that the whites fermented at different speeds. The malos were quite late for the white [cuvées] as the cellars remained quite cool. The reds are all under 14° alcohol except for the Bourgogne Rouge.” My pick from Morey’s 2019 is a marvellous Meursault Les Tessons, a Village Cru that frankly deserves Premier Cru status, especially when it produces wines the quality of this.