2006 Meursault Les Tessons
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Morey's domain wines were actually easier to taste at the end of May than his negociant offerings (see my coverage under Morey-Blanc), as only a few of the latter wines had finished their malolactic fermentations. Still, says Morey, his negociant wines typically "find their balance" earlier than his domain wines, and on occasion he prefers the Morey-Blanc bottlings during their first two years. Short pruning and ebourgeonnage were critical in 2007, said Morey, as were treatments against mildew. "The chardonnay was not too bad when crop loads were reasonable," he added. Morey stirred the lees three times a week through January as he felt the '07s needed more stuffing.
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Morey picked his domain chardonnay before his pinot noir in 2006, beginning on September 20. He used his sorting table to eliminate grapes affected by gray rot, and nobly rotten berries as well "unless they were nice." He described the 2005 vintage as "more complete and easier to make." In comparison, he added, "2006 is to drink earlier, but a lot of good wines were made." Morey was one of a few winemakers on my tour who compared 2005 and 2006 to 1985 and 1986.