2007 Riesling

"The length and body of the 2007s do not come from sugar; they come from extract and concentration," said winemaker Frederic Blanck, before showing me an impressive array of grand crus from the new vintage. Blanck emphasized that this was a lot earlier than he would normally like to pour these recently bottled wines, as this family estate generally waits a good three years to release its grand crus. Blanck is convinced that the 2007s will evolve more slowly than the 2005s here, which he believes are more opulent than, but can't match the new vintage for, sheer purity (he compared the '07s to the '04s and '01s). The Blanck '06s have paler, healthier colors than most examples from this vintage but nonetheless will offer pleasure considerably earlier than the more gripping and more laid-back 2007s. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL) Also recommended: 2007 Chasselas (86), 2007 Sylvaner (85), 2007 Pinot Gris (86), 2006 Pinot Gris (85), 2007 Gewurztraminer (85). Other wines tasted: 2007 Pinot Blanc, 2006 Pinot Blanc, 2006 Pinot Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes*.