1997 Riesling

Fréderic Blanck is in charge of the vineyards and vinification, while cousin Philippe Blanck handles the commercial side of this fairly large family domain, consisting of 36 hectares of vines (the family also has a négociant company, but I tasted only the domain wines), of which more than 80% are on hillside sites.Since the mid-'90s, no chemical herbicides have been used—"not because we want to say bio on the label," says Frédéric, "but simply because we want to keep the vineyards in optimal health."The Blanck wines remain on their fermentation lees until at least January, but the lees may be re-used until March or April.Blanck offers three distinct categories of wine.The "classics" are bottled quite early, in March or April, and are on the market early to finance the domain lieux-dits and grand cru bottlings; the latter wines are generally released a full three years after the harvest.The basic cuvées tend to be fairly light, dry, fruit-driven wines; although they offer limited interest to serious collectors, they are very competently made and do not lack for material.The more serious wines are built to age, says Philippe; they are meant to be drunk at the dinner table.The domain owns parcels in no less than five grand crus, and there were numerous standouts in my marathon tasting chez Blanck.Happily, pricing for these wines is extremely reasonable by today's standards.