2017 Chablis

Thomas Pico is one of the leading growers of his generation. Pico has now moved into a new cellar in Courgis as he continues to take over more of his family’s vineyard holdings. The Pattes Loup Chablis are distinguished by rich, vinous textures that are the result of working with low yields and then long élevage that can be two years or more, but these days it tends to be a year in oak and a year in steel for most wines. When I stopped by in July 2019, Pico still had one of this 2016s (the Butteaux) in barrel, whereas a number of producers were already showing bottled 2018s! Readers will note the addition of a new wine, the Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru, which is made from purchased fruit.