2021 Aloxe-Corton Village

“Almost everywhere was affected by frost,” winemaker Nicolas Faure tells me from his winery in Meuilley, before a large posse of witches and skeletons descend upon us, yelling, “Des bonbons ou un sort!” [trick or treat]. Faure fetches some sweets, not least because one of them is his and his wife, Amélie Berthaut’s own. “But it was not as bad as in 2016 when I lost 70%. It was about 40% in 2021. The summer was not like 2013 when it rained, but when you see the total precipitation, it is below average. I started the harvest on 18 September. For the Gamay, I am going to pull it out and plant some Merlot at 8,300 vines per hectare. I like Merlot. Gamay is not made for clay but granite, and since 2014, I have never made a vintage that I liked. So I thought about which variety goes with clay and can ripen. Gamay and Merlot need almost the same temperature to ripen. So I will try! There was less ripeness for sure, but it is fresh.” These are fascinating and successful wines, not least an Aligoté that is everything you want from this variety finally receiving its deserved dues, whilst his clever use of Pinot Blanc adds another dimension. Only his Aloxe-Corton leaves just a little to be desired.