1998 Gevrey-Chambertin
00
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"At the outset, the '98s were hard and inexpressive, like the '91s," reports Sylvie Esmonin. "They were not fruity wines, and one felt the acids. But the slow malolactic fermentations and the long time on the lees helped to complete the wines." The '98s show their terroir quite clearly, Esmonin adds, while the '97s would be harder to identify blind. "Nineteen ninety-eight is not powerful like the '96," she notes, "but it's still a vintage we'll be talking about later even if it's not so obvious today."
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