1997 Gevrey-Chambertin
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"At the outset, the '98s were hard and inexpressive, like the '91s," reports Sylvie Esmonin. "They were not fruity wines, and one felt the acids. But the slow malolactic fermentations and the long time on the lees helped to complete the wines." The '98s show their terroir quite clearly, Esmonin adds, while the '97s would be harder to identify blind. "Nineteen ninety-eight is not powerful like the '96," she notes, "but it's still a vintage we'll be talking about later even if it's not so obvious today."
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"Un millesime sans angles " is how Sylvie Esmonin describes 1997. "But it was hard to extract color," she notes, "in contrast to 1996, when all we had to do was put the grapes into the fermenter." Esmonin pere et fille harvested early in '97, with grape sugars mostly in the 11.8%-12.3% range. The '97s received a higher percentage of new barrels than usual, no doubt a function of the small size of the crop. I asked Sylvie whether '97 or '96 displayed individual vineyard character more clearly. Her response: "If terroir is about power, then '96 shows the terroir better. But if it mainly about fruit, then '97 may have the edge." But she hastened to add that "1996 is perhaps the closest vintage to our ideal in many years: the wines are graceful without being small, powerful but elegant."
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