2009 Volnay Village
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2013 - 2015
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I tasted the 2009s from D'Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around.
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2015 - 2021
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The harvest at d'Angerville started on September 9. Guillaume d'Angerville told me that in recent years he has doubled the number of pickers with the goal of harvesting all of the fruit in just a few days. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Cuvaison started with 3-4 days of cold maceration at a modestly cool temperature followed by two weeks on the skins with no punchdowns and a generally soft approach to extraction. After pressing, the wines were moved into barrel. The estate did one racking after the malos. New oak was on average 20-25%. In 2009 the estate completed a conversion to biodynamic farming started in 2006.
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Guillaume d'Angerville admitted to making "full yields for us" in 2009, by which he meant 36 to 38 hectoliters per hectare. "The wines are harmonious and long," he told me. "They're also expressive early and a bit classier than the 2005s." One major improvement here in recent years is in the way the estate harvests. "We've doubled the number of our pickers since my father died in 2003," he explained. "All our vineyards are close together and they ripen pretty much at the same time, so it's important to be able to harvest over a shorter period. We now take 5 or 6 days; previously it could be 10 or 12." D'Angerville started picking on September 13, with potential alcohol levels in the 13% range. The top cuvees here in 2009 look sensational.