1998 Volnay Clos Des Chenes

Girardin recently purchased a two-hectare piece of land in Meursault, where he will consolidate vinification and levage at a single location (he currently has his wines aging in no fewer than five separate caves around the village of Santenay). The new facility will be constructed on multiple levels so that he won't have to pump the wines. Girardin, who aims to reduce his total production by 30% over the next couple of years, told me he will maintain "a white wine orientation," limiting his red wines to 15 or so bottlings from the Cote de Beaune and a number of "mostly grand crus" from the Cote de Nuits. Girardin '99s appear to be his finest vintage to date for red wines, due in equal part to recent changes in technique here and to the high quality of the fruit on the Cote de Beaune. Following the fermentation, Girardin did an extended week-long decanting of the must to leave only the fine lees behind, and most of the '99 reds were still in barrel on their lees in November. "The more these wines develop in barrel, the more backward they become, which is a sign of a great year," says Girardin. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; some Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by European Cellars, New York, NY)

The dynamic, ambitious Girardin offered a few Cote de Nuits bottlings in '97, then expanded his negociant line substantially in '98, with highly positive results. Girardin has totally transformed his red wine vinification since the '97 vintage, and his technique continues to evolve. "Before 1997 my wines were aromatic but lacked structure," he admitted. Since then Girardin has lengthened total cuvaison to 27 to 30 days, including a ten-day cold soak at 10oC and more post-fermentation maceration than previously. He did three pigeages per day with the '98s, and four for the '99s. Girardin began using tables de trie both in the vineyard and in the cellar for the '98 harvest to eliminate rotten and underripe grapes, and also purchased a pneumatic press. He increased the percentage of new oak to 70% for the crus in '98, with a number of his top wines aged in all new barrels. The key to making supple, rich wines in 1998, says Girardin, was to have clean lees to work with. The '98s have charm, he says; they are essentially gentle in style but should age well on sheer balance. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; some Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by Eric Solomon/European Cellars, New York, NY)