1997 Volnay Clos Des Chenes

The dynamic, ambitious Girardin offered a few Cote de Nuits bottlings in '97, then expanded his negociant line substantially in '98, with highly positive results. Girardin has totally transformed his red wine vinification since the '97 vintage, and his technique continues to evolve. "Before 1997 my wines were aromatic but lacked structure," he admitted. Since then Girardin has lengthened total cuvaison to 27 to 30 days, including a ten-day cold soak at 10oC and more post-fermentation maceration than previously. He did three pigeages per day with the '98s, and four for the '99s. Girardin began using tables de trie both in the vineyard and in the cellar for the '98 harvest to eliminate rotten and underripe grapes, and also purchased a pneumatic press. He increased the percentage of new oak to 70% for the crus in '98, with a number of his top wines aged in all new barrels. The key to making supple, rich wines in 1998, says Girardin, was to have clean lees to work with. The '98s have charm, he says; they are essentially gentle in style but should age well on sheer balance. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; some Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by Eric Solomon/European Cellars, New York, NY)